Pairings: Port and Cheese

The following is reproduced directly from the September issue of Wine Spectator magazine, "Port Wine Plate" page 99. I thought it was interesting enough to include here because we generally only equate Port wine with dessert, and usually, as the dessert alone. Now I am intrigued to try Port with some of the cheese selections WS references below. Enjoy!



WINE: Delaforce Ruby Port Fine NV (89, $13)
There's a reason the English upper class finish fine dinners with Port and cheese, typically a Stilton or farmhouse Cheddar. Some cheeses deliver so powerful a punch that they require a wine that can push back effectively.
Stilton, which has a dry, austere edge that sets it apart from other blue cheeses, and Cheddar, which has a char­acteristic bitter bite hovering around the earthy flavors, bring out the best in a sweet wine. And if that sweet wine has the extra body of a fortified wine, such as Port, it produces a classic match In this case, the austerity in a Colston Bassett Stilton played against the Port's sweet­nessto let Delafonx Ruby Port Fine NV express its lovely plum, cherry and spice flavors intensely.
The hint of caramel on the wines finish also bal­anced the bitterness of the Quickes Traditional Farm­house Cheddar. That cheese took some of the sweet­ness from the Port, but it let the wine's flavors sail effortlessly.
Bleu d'Auvergne has a stronger flavor than Stilton, and its creamier, which makes for an even silkier match. The Port's alcohol came through a bit more with it, though.
Parmlgiano-Reggiano, the classic Italian hard cheese often grated on pasta, tastes wonderful on its own. It's especially good with a touc h of sweetness, often served with a drizzle of honey (especially truffle honey), and it came off as especially opulent with the Port
Rich, sweet Medool dates served as a perfect foil for all these cheeses, and they took nothing away from the richness of the Port.

Date-night (Woodward Canyon, Columbia Valley, Cabernet Sauvignon v. 2005 ~ 91 points Wine Spectator)

Last week my husband and I took a mid-week break, snagged a babysitter and headed out for dinner. If you have young children, you can understand the importance of a date-night going smoothly. It's likely that your date-nights, like ours, are few and far in between, so when you do manage to get one, you want your meal to be just right and the wine to be perfectly paired. We picked one of our favorite restaurants, Morton's Bistro, (http://www.mortonsbistronw.com/) and headed out the door, eagerly anticipating a tremendous dinner and exquisite wine. The food was just as we had expected - delicious in every way. We started with the amaretto baked brie served with fresh green apple slices and candied walnuts and warm crusty bread. Then we each had the fresh beet salad with goat cheese and oranges, also delicious. My husband ordered the butternut squash ravioli and I had a chicken dish that was served in phyllo. After selecting our entrees, we perused the wine list. Actually, at Morton's Bistro, there is no wine list. Guests are invited to personally visit the wine "cellars" (two areas set up amidst the restaurant) with or without their server, view, ask questions, and select a wine for dinner. We were in a fix. Should we go with a tried and true - Abeja Vineyard Cabernet - or try something new that sounded very good (and, might I say, had a lovely label) - Woodward Canyon, Columbia Valley, Cabernet Sauvignon v. 2005 (http://www.woodwardcanyon.com/) We decided to take a risk and try the Woodward.

It was difficult to judge the color of the wine as we were seated intimately in a dimly lit restaurant. However, holding my glass near the table candle, I could see the deep purple, hazy color. Swirling my glass produced faint legs. I had the impression this wine was not a rich, juicy thick wine at all. At first sniff the earthy aromas came first and powerful - mushroom and tobacco and also very oak-y. I visualized smoking a cigar with this wine. I let the glass sit a bit and then swirled and sniffed again. This time I detected vanillas and burnt toast. The thought crossed my mind that maybe this wine should have been decanted. I took a sip. Dry, very dry. Hardly any sweetness, and very thin body. Although I swirled the wine in my mouth, I felt as though it travelled immediately to the back of my throat, no flavor seemed to linger anywhere and the finish was very short. In my opinion, this wine was very basic and almost disjointed in structure. I thought the price was too high considering the quality. Although I was not impressed, I did wonder if it would have improved with decanting. Later that night I read the Wine Spectator review which confirmed that wine tasting and reviewing really is an individual experience (WS rates this wine at 91 points!), moreover, that this wine will cellar well and might be best after 2010! I plan to give it another shot in a few years. Which, in all likelihood, should coincide with our next date-night!

Earth and tobacco flavors weave through the chunky cherry and black tea character, making this more savory than most. Yet has the structure to age. Definitely worth cellaring. Best after 2010. 2,866 cases made. 91 points ~Wine Spectator

I've Missed You Merlot (Horse Heaven Hills, Columbia Valley, Merlot v. 2005 91 points Wine Spectator)

One of my favorite movies is the hysterically addictive "Sideways" starring Paul Giamatti and Thomas Haden Church. I love it. I love the dry humor, I love the scenery, I love the way these two crazy characters wind their way through Napa Valley working through their individual dramas. However, ever since I saw that movie, I've had an aversion to drinking Merlot. Paul Giamatti's character despises Merlot so much and so vehemently that the viewer begins to subliminally hate it as well. Merlot sales must have plummeted after this movie premiered. Well, yesterday I was in Costco (interesting place to scout out wine, I know, but they actually have an amazing selection) and a bottle caught my eye. I'm almost ashamed to admit it but if I'm not searching for a specific brand/variety of wine, I will peruse the bottles and look closer at the ones whose labels catch my eye. Then I read the descriptions, check the Wine Spectator rating and then the price. I'm sure I'm violating all kinds of wine rules by using this system but, hey, it works for me. Anyway, Costco. I came across this nice-looking label with a very enticing description (dark chocolate, velvety finish, cocoa.... ). But it was a Merlot. I backed away as I replayed those famous words in my head, "I'm NOT drinking any *expletive* Merlot!). Then I read the description again. Hmmmm. Good rating as well, and the price.....Costco had it for $10.99 (!) "Well", I thought, "Why not?". On the way home I sent my husband a text message, "Bought a bottle of Merlot". His reply: "Uh-Oh".
I sat down at the table with the opened bottle and poured a glass. Wow, what beautiful, brilliant color. The brightest berry purple, semi-opaque, just gorgeous all the way through. I wish I had a blouse the color of this wine. I swirled the wine and sniffed. The first flavor that hit me was the deep dark chocolate. I don't know how it is that wine can take on the variety of flavors and aromas as it does, let alone the scent and taste of chocolate, but this wine truly did smell like a brick of Ghirardelli dark baking chocolate. It was hard to hold back from taking a sip. I continued to sniff and as the wine developed a bit I noticed an earthy, dusty aroma along with raspberry and black cherry. Finally I took a sip. This wine hit my pallate square on the tip of my tongue with a distinct spiciness. Although it packed a full punch of flavor in the sip, it was also dry and the flavors dissipated from my mouth quickly. My verdict: a moderately complex wine, good quality, and unbeatable price. If this is any indication of my feeling toward this Merlot, the next day we returned to Costco and bought 4 more bottles.

This silky textured wine is round and polished, showing spicy, chocolaty undertones to the ripe cherry and cola flavors that linger on the refined finish. Drink now through 2012. 757 cases made. 91 points ~ Wine Spectator $24.00/bottle ($10.99 at Costco)

What can we bring? (Dobbes Family Estate, Pinot Gris v. 2004 86 points Wine Spectator)

To answer that question, let me offer you this:
Last night we opened a bottle of Pinot Gris (Dobbes Family Estate, Pinot Gris v. 2004) with our dinner of roasted butternut squash and garlic soup, a green salad, and some fresh corn on the cob. An acquaintance had previously mentioned Dobbes Family Estate wines and suggested we give it a try. My husband and I both very much enjoyed it. The appearance of the wine is nice and clear, a very soft yellow with a light grapefruit and slight yogurt aroma. Upon further examination I detect just the slightest hint black pepper (odd as it sounds). The flavor in this Pinot coats my mouth. Definitely juicy and yummy. It is very citrusy, I taste the grapefruit and a bit of lime and maybe a little bit of peach. The flavors in this wine definitely linger in the mouth and leave me smacking my lips. While it doesn't move me to the "WOW" factor, it is certainly one that I would pick up again. Although I enjoyed a glass by itself, below is a recipe that would be tremendous with this Pinot Gris.
This recipe is adapted from my favorite wine and food pairing cookbook "The Wine Lover Cooks With Wine. Great Recipes for the Essential Ingredient. Sid Goldstein" http://www.amazon.com/Wine-Lover-Cooks-Essential-Ingredient/dp/0811830225/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1221193013&sr=8-1 that I have personally made and it is fantastic. Even my children loved this salad!

Poached Dijon Chicken on Apple, Walnut, and Blue Cheese Salad

This variation on Waldorf salad features chicken simmered in a mustard-flavored poaching liquid, surrounded by sweet-tart apples, bitter walnuts, and salty blue cheese. Topping off the melange of flavors is a sweet-sour dressing similar to Italian agrodolce. Wine is used both in the poaching liquid and in the dressing. Enjoy with a fruity Riesling or a crisp Pinot Gris/Grigio.

POACHING LIQUID
2 cups water
1/2 cup dry white wine
1 T Dijon mustard
1/4 cup diced celery
1 yellow onion, quartered
2 sprigs tarragon
1 bay leaf
1/2 tsp salt
1/2 tsp whole peppercorns
4 skinless, boneless chicken breast halves
DRESSING
1/4 cup honey
1/4 cup water
1/4 cup white wine vinegar
1 cup Champagne or dry white wine
1 T minced shallots
1 T minced fresh tarragon
2 tsp fresh lemon juice
1 tsp Dijon mustard
1/4 cup olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
12 ounces mixed salad greens
2 red apples, cored and thinly sliced
1/2 cup walnut halves, toasted
3/4 cup (4 ounces) crumbled blue cheese
TO MAKE THE POACHING LIQUID: In a large saucepan, combine all the ingredients. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat to a low simmer and cook for 35 to 40 minutes. Add the chicken breasts, cover, and cook for 10 to 12 minutes, or until opaque throughout. Using tongs, transfer chicken to a plate and let cool. Save the liquid for another use.
TO MAKE THE DRESSING: In a small bowl, combine the honey, water, vinegar, wine, shallots, tarragon, lemon juice, and mustard and whisk thoroughly. Whisk in the olive oil. Season with salt and pepper.
To serve, divide the greens among 4 salad plates. Cut the chicken into slices. Top the greens with the sliced chicken, apples, and walnuts. Spoon the dressing over. Sprinkle with the blue cheese.
~Serves 4 as an entree~

Dobbes Family Estate, Pinot Gris v. 2004. Smooth and appealing for its custardy lime and nectarine flavors. Drink now. 375 cases made. 86 points $18/bottle ~Wine Spectator

Chardonnay: You Deceptive Little Vixen (Domaine Serene Etoile Vineyard Chardonnay 2005, 88 points Wine Spectator)

Did I mention I'm not a fan of Chardonnay? Let me begin again. I wasn't a fan of Chardonnay until a recent visit to Domaine Serene Vineyard and Winery (http://www.domaineserene.com/) left my palate stunned. Stunned.

I was prepared to act interested in the server's speal about the Chardonnay, prepared to stick my nose in the glass and pretend that I smelled something other than just pure alcohol, prepared to taste and then privately wince as the swallow rattled my molars and screamed down my throat, prepared to sip and then toss the remainder of the wine, politely thanking our server and moving on to the Reds. As our server's words passed slowly over my head, encapsulated in soft clouds, something jerked me back to earth: "Did she just say "butterscotch and cotton candy"?" I began to focus on her words more intently. I began to actually listen. She described this Chardonnay as the type of wine that wins over Chardonnay-haters. She herself admitted that before trying this wine, she (also) was not a Chard fan. She went on to describe the aromas of the wine (yellow apple, vanilla, butterscotch), the feel of the wine in the mouth (thick, rich, smooth) and the flavors expressed (Meyer lemon, quince and pineapple). She had my full attention. I couldn't wait to test her theory. I tasted. I looked at my husband, eyes open WIDE. This was the best Chardonnay I had ever tried. I tasted again, and again and finished the glass in record time. I then began to rapid-fire confess my sins to the server. I hate Chardonnay, I said. I usually hate Chardonnay. I've never found one that I can really enjoy, let alone drink the entire glass (how about the entire bottle!) Our server just grinned and began to nod her head in knowing understanding. "Yes" she said, "I was the same way. I tell everyone: "This Chardonnay is better than anything you have ever tried before"." I jabbed my husband in the ribs, the knowing jab, the "let's spend some money on this" jab. He just looked at me and satisfactorily smiled, and then a somewhat worried look ran across his face. "We haven't even started the Reds yet"......

Domaine Serene Etoile Vineyard Chardonnay v. 2005, $45.00/bottle
2.0 tons/acre. 18 months sur lees with frequent battonage (lees stirring) in French oak barrels - none of which were new. -From Domaine Serene Spring Portfolio 2008 v. 10

Smooth and polished, with a spicy, toasty tang to the pear and cream flavors, finishing with crispness. Drink now through 2010. 322 cases made. –HS 88 Points - From Wine Spectator